To me the major attractions of the Greek islands have always been the sun, the sea and the white washed villages. Add to that the historical and cultural aspects together with a gentle and friendly people, and I have travel destination I keep returning to.
My first visit goes back more than 30 years, when the voyage from Athens to Santorini was done on old vessel and arriving at the peer around five in the morning. I remember the old couple from the local taverna serving rabbit to hungry travellers for breakfast while we were waiting for a taxi to take us somewhere. As today, the road from the peer was a steep climb up the mountainous island, too tough to walk even for a fit and young guy. But there were no black-dressed women selling their beds to hordes of backpackers.
I spent three weeks on Kamari beach, sleeping on the black sand and washing in the sea. This was July and close to the peak tourist season, but as the airport was under construction and the island a bit cumbersome to get to, the beach was only occupied by a dozen young people like myself. With two tavernas we had the choice of mousaka and mousaka, with a bottle of Retsina being the standard fare to wash down the food. Accompanying me was also Robert Pirsig’s "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance," which was to become some kind of inspiration for my forthcoming trip towards India.
Being spoiled with the exquisite taste of Asian food, Greek food served in most tavernas is usually not much to write home about–really. But I always like a mousaka with Greek salad and tzatziki together with a bottle of Mythos beer. That beer, by the way, is quite good. Occasionally you might be lucky and come across a family run taverna where the owner takes more pride in his cooking than his bank account. My partner and I came across one on Astypalea and one up the hill on Simi island. Unfortunately though, most of the time the food is overcooked or too dry, and the service leaves a lot to be desired–particularly in the summer season.
The wonder of Greece is not the food, it is the joy of strolling through the maze of tiny white washed villages baked in the sun and contrasted by the deep blue of the sea and sky. It is as if the villages has an inherent form and shape just waiting to be immortalised by the travelling camera.
Island to island postcards:
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Amorgos:Facts: 117 sq.m. Population 1,720
Access: Boat from Naxos. Helicopter.
My opinion: One of the few islands that still remain some of its original charm, basically because the island is somewhat "difficult" to get to, and hence not overrun by tourists. There are four main villages worth acquainting, the capital of Chora, the ports of Katapola and Egiali, and the hill town of Potamos
The official Amorgos site.
Astypalea: Facts: 95 sq.m. Population 1,150
Access: Boat from Naxos and Amorgos. Airport.
My opinion: Its isolated geographical position makes it an island with limited numbers of foreign visitors. Crowded with Greek [snobbish] tourists in August. Well worth a visit, and the sunset over the chora is spectacular.
For further information: Astypalea’s home page.
Folegandros:Facts: 32 sq.m. Population 650
Access: Boat from Santorini, Milos, Ios.
My opinion: One of the few Greek islands that is not overrun by tourists. The island has adequate facilities, plenty of good restaurants and a unique atmosphere. Limited night life, and most of the visitors are mature travellers. One of my favourite islands.
For further information: Folegandros on the net.
Kos:Facts: 290 sq.m. Population 21,500
Access: Boat from Rhodes, Samos, Piraeus. International airport.
My opinion: Even though this island is full of tourists, it is big enough to get away from it all. After a week or two on an island where everybody goes to bed long before midnight, a bit of "internationally" oriented night life puts you back on track, as it has all the facilities that come with tourists.
More information about Kos, click here.
Milos:Facts: 161 sq.m. Population 4,500
Access: Boat from Piraeus. Airport.
My opinion: Another attraction apart from the Venus of Milo is a boat trip around the island, with a stop for swimming at the spectacular rock formations of Kleftiko. The view from the village of Plaka is also worthwhile
Mykonos:Facts: 88 sq.m. Population 5,700
Access: Boat from Piraeus, Naxos, Paros. International airport.
My opinion: The party island of all the party islands. The gay flavour has survived the ever changing trends and times, and the beaches, the bars, and the discos are still the same as 30 years ago. A Tom Collins at Kastro listening to Bach at sunset is still very popular.
Travel guide to Mykonos, Mykonos or gay Mykonos.
Nisyros:Facts: 41 sq.m. Population 1,100
Access: Boat from Rhodes or Kos.
My opinion: This volcanic island is a pleasant surprise, although somewhat boring at night. Still, you have Cyclades like town in the Dodecanese and the volcano crater itself is worth a visit. So is the beautiful little town on top of the ridge overlooking the crater, Nikia.
Read more about this fascinating island.
Paros:Facts: 194 sq.m. Population 7,900
Access: Boat from Naxos, Mykonos, Piraeus. International airport (charter).
My opinion: In spite of being at the cross road of many islands this spot is still charming and nice. Rent a car and see some charming villages and beaches. The car can also take you to Antiparos on a ferry.
Parosweb, where you can find more information.
Santorini:Facts: 73 sq.m. Population 7,100
Access: Boat from Piraeus- International airport.
My opinion: Of all the picture postcards you see all over Greece, most of them are taken in Santorini. The view, the architecture, the village–it is all stunning and well worth a visit despite the high influx of tourists and the expensive prices. There is nothing like a early Sunday morning breakfast overlooking the volcanic island of Nea Kameni listening to Mahler’s 5th symphony in C Sharp Minor.
Click for the Santorini home page.
Sifnos:Facts: 89 sq.m. Population 2,200
Access: Boat from Piraeus.
My opinion: If you are looking for a typical white washed village to wander through, Appolonia in the middle of the island is the place to stay. Beaches can be found around in many places, but don't miss a trip to the Kastro and have dinner at the edge overlooking the sea.
For further information: Sifnos on the net.
Tilos:Facts: 63 sq.m. Population 320
Access: Boat from Rhodes and Nisyros/Kos.
My opinion: This island is sleepy but not boring. Just a few hours from Rhodes, you can hike, swim and walk, and enjoy Greek village life in the evening. Most overnighters are middle aged couples on a fortnight away from home.
Further reading about this quiet island.
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Chios: Facts: 852 sq.m. Population 54,000. Access: Boat from Piraeus and Çesme (Turkey). Airport. My opinion: I visited this island many years ago on a short crossing from Çesme in Turkey. Very atypical Greek. Webinfo. |
Crete: Facts: 8,259 sq.m. Population 460,000. Access: Boat from Santorini, Rhodes, Piraeus, Ios. International airports. My opinion: Crete is more than an island, and will need weeks to explore. Good destination for beach holiday, culture trips and exploring small villages. Might be an advantage to rent a car. Webinfo. |
Ios: Facts: 108 sq.m. Population 1,650. Access: Boat from Santorini, Naxos, and Piraeus. My opinion: Ios was the party island when I was part of the party in 1975, and it still is. More popular with the young crowd, and probably not for me any more. Webinfo. |
Iraklia: Facts: 17 sq.m. Population 110. Access: Boat from Naxos. My opinion: The most boring island in the Greek archipelago I ever visited. Arrived one afternoon and left the next day. Nothing to do if you are not into sun bathing and swimming. Webinfo. |
Kimolos: Facts: 38 sq.m. Population 800. Access: Boat from Milos. My opinion: Usually visited while doing a boat excursion around Milos. Not much to see, limited eating facilities. Great place if you want solitude and prefer to do your own cooking. Webinfo. |
Naxos: Facts: 448 sq.m. Population 18,000. Access: Boat from Santorini, Mykonos, Piraeus. Airport. My opinion: Capital of the Cyclades, Naxos town is a reasonably large town and has all that a town of that size can offer. The island is also big enough to get away from the crowd, and has quite a few picturesque villages spread around. Webinfo. |
Patmos: Facts: 34 sq.m. Population 2,600. Access: Boat from Samos and Kos. My opinion: Patmos is most notable for its mention in the Christian scriptural Book of Revelation. The book's introduction states that the author, John, has been exiled to Patmos, and that there he saw and recorded a vision from Jesus. Very early Christian tradition identifies this John as Saint John the Evangelist. As such, Patmos is a destination for Christian pilgrimage. Apart from this there isn't much to see that you cannot experience on other islands. Webinfo. |
Rhodes: Facts: 1,398 sq.m. Population 68,000. Access: Boat from Kos, Crete, and Piraeus. International airport. My opinion: Rhodes was one of the first islands to accommodate large amounts of package tourists. The old city is still charming and Rhodes makes a good destination for exploring the smaller Dodecanese islands. Webinfo. |
Samos: Facts: 472 sq.m. Population 41,500. Access: Boat from Piraeus, Kos, and Rhodes. International airport. My opinion: This island is very popular with Scandinavian package tourists. But the charm of the village of Pythagorion, which has taken its name from mathematician and philosopher Pythagoras, is well worth a day or two if you happen to stroll by. Also, the island is big enough to explore for a few days. Webinfo. |
Serifos: Facts: 70 sq.m. Population 1,100. Access: Boat from Piraeus and Milos. My opinion: Apart from the fascinating village at the top of the hill with a majestic view of the island, the beach area is basically too dusty and boring. Webinfo. |
Simi: Facts: 58 sq.m. Population 2,500. Access: Boat from Rhodes. My opinion: One of the pearls of the Dodecanese Islands. This island has a very beautiful harbour, with tier upon tier of houses on both sides of the bay. Some white, some pastel yellow, but virtually all with Neo-Classical pediments–a reminder that 100 years ago this was one of Greece's most prosperous islands. Most visitors come on a day trip from Rhodes, which can make it difficult to find accommodation in high season, but this is also one of the charms of the island as the evenings are quiet but not boring. Webinfo. |
Skyros: Facts: 208 sq.m. Population 2,900. Access: Boat from Kimi. Airport. My opinion: Skyros was one of the first islands I visited in Greece, but it is more than 30 years ago now. Then it was a pearl, with quiet village life and nice beaches. This is where I relaxed for a week before embarking on my long journey towards India in 1976. Webinfo. |
